Pure Water Occasional, February, 2023
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Greetings from Pure Water Products, the Pure Water Gazette, and the Pure Water Occasional.
In this almost-Easter Occasional you'll hear about hydrogen sulfide in well water, what it is and how to get rid of it. Read about NSF certification--what it is and is it worth the expense? Where to find quick reference charts for the treatment of water contaminants and conditions and where to find water treatment products to address them. A concise overview of what water treatment is needed for city and rural water. And, as always, there is much, much more.
Thank you for reading, and sincere thanks from Pure Water Products for your continuing support. |
Thanks for reading!
Please visit the Pure Water Gazette, where you will find hundreds of articles about water and water treatment, and the Pure Water Products website, where there is much information about water treatment and the products we offer.
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Hydrogen Sulfide
Removing Hydrogen Sulfide from Well Water
The “rotten egg” odor that people complain about in well water can come from many sources, but it is most commonly caused by “sulfur reducing” bacteria that give off a foul-smelling gas. The bacteria themselves are harmless–they don’t cause disease–but the gas they produce can cause horrible odors and smelly black staining in pipes and appliances.
In some parts of the country, most notably Florida, where hydrogen sulfide is common and very severe, the standard treatment is to spray the water into an open air tank, allow the noxious gas to escape into the atmosphere, then use a secondary pump to send the water from the tank into the home. Tanks of this type are expensive, need lots of space, and are subject to freezing in cooler climates. Therefore, another type of treatment known as “precipitation/filtration” is preferred in most areas.
With this method, an “oxidizer” causes the trapped hydrogen sulfide gas to “precipitate” to elemental sulfur, then the sulfur is trapped in a filter. It’s a two-step process. The filter is most often carbon. Filter carbon, especially a specialty carbon called “catalytic carbon,” can perform both steps–precipitation and filtration–but unless the amount of H2S (hydrogen sulfide) is small, the carbon wears out quickly and has to be replaced. However, when the carbon is helped by a more powerful “oxidizer,” the carbon can last a very long time and the process can be very successful. Many “oxidizers” can cause the precipitation of the gas: air, chlorine, hydrogen peroxide, potassium permanganate, ozone, and more. For residential users, the most practical and the most easily maintained are aeration (air) and chlorination.
A full treatment system with chlorine looks like this–
1. A dry pellet chlorinator — a device that drops chlorine pellets into the well itself– followed by a carbon filter, or
2. A chemical feed pump, installed before the pressure tank, that feeds liquid chlorine (household bleach) into the water line. After the pressure tank, you must have a retention tank–usually 80 to 120 gallons–to give the chlorine time to work. After the retention tank, a carbon filter.
A full treatment system with aeration looks like this —
1. An “Aer-Max” system, which consists of a 10″ X 54″ treatment tank that is fed by a small air compressor. It is installed after the pressure tank, and it is followed by a carbon filter, or
2. A “single tank aerator” installed after the pressure tank. It is a backwashing filter with a special control valve that draws in air to “oxidize” the H2S so that it can be removed by the filter carbon in the bottom 2/3 of the tank.
Here are page links that show the various strategies. Many have installation diagrams.
The carbon filter used in any of these system (other than the single tank aerator) can be either a “backwashing” tank-style filter or a carbon block filter. If iron is present in the water, a backwashing filter must be used because a carbon block filter would be clogged quickly with iron.
Catalytic carbon is the carbon of choice with hydrogen sulfide, but any good carbon filter will work after proper oxidation.
Here are some places on our website to look for carbon filters —
Often the hard part of designing these filters is choosing and sizing the carbon filters. Do not hesitate to call or email us for help.
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Where to Find It
Want to know what removes aluminum or chloramines from water? We've put together a complete reference chart of contaminants and conditions arranged alphabetically from Acidic Water to Xylenes. It isn't designed to be a complete treatment strategy, but it's a good place to start. It's on the Pure Water Gazette website:
Looking for a specific water treatment product or part? See our alphabetical list on the Pure Water Gazette website:
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How Water Is Treated for Use in Homes
If you live in a city . . .
your water comes to you in pipes from a municipal water supplier who gets water from lakes and rivers and sometimes wells, treats it a bit to make it clear, odor-free, germ-free, non-corrosive, and generally palatable, then pumps it through a maze of pipes to your home.
As part of its treatment, the city water plant adds chlorine or a mixture of chlorine and ammonia called chloramine to the water to kill pathogens. The treatment plant also adds other chemicals to clarify the water and prevent corrosion in pipes. Some cities also add an industrial waste product called fluoride which is believed to prevent tooth decay.
Between the city water plant and the home lie miles of pipe, some of it very old, made of a variety of materials and in varying states of repair. The water is affected a lot by pipe materials and by contaminants that can enter the water if the pipe leaks or is broken. The water that leaves the treatment plant is not the same water that enters the home. A lot of things happen to it along the way.
Most city water plants do a praiseworthy job of taking some pretty dirty raw water from a lake or river, getting the mud and sticks out of it and turning it into water that looks clear, tastes good, and won’t cause a cholera epidemic. They supply water that is of really high quality for hosing down driveways and flushing toilets. People who have watched a plumber cut open a pipe entering their home, however, usually don’t feel good about drinking their tap water anymore, or even bathing in it.
This very decent water delivered by the city can be made excellent in the home, which is, after all, where the fine polishing of water should take place. Home treatment as a final stage in the process makes much more sense than for the city water plant to try to supply top quality drinking water to the home. Only about 1% of the water that leaves the water treatment plant is used for drinking. Most of it is for flushing toilets, watering lawns, and mopping floors.
Point of entry treatment for city water most often consists of cartridge or tank-style activated carbon filters to remove disinfectants (chlorine or chloramine). If the water is “hard” (meaning that it has lots of calcium and magnesium in it), it can be treated with a conventional water softener or one of the several newer “salt-free” alternatives. Treatment for hardness is mainly done to protect pipes and fixtures and to make water more aesthetically pleasing. Adding a point-of-entry ultraviolet (UV) unit to assure bacteria-free, cyst-free water for the whole home is becoming more popular, especially in light of the increasing number of “boil water” alerts.
For point-of-use treatment for the water that you’re going to drink, cook with, or make ice with, a variety of countertop and under-the-sink systems are available, from simple, very tight carbon filters that improve taste and odor and remove chemicals to the more comprehensive treatment, reverse osmosis. The real king of point of use drinking water systems is reverse osmosis. A good undersink reverse osmosis unit can provide top quality drinking water for a moderate cost. RO, as it’s called, removes virtually anything one would want removed from water, including the more difficult contaminants like arsenic, lead, chromium 6, fluoride, chloramines, trihalomethanes, and a wide range of pesticides, herbicides, “pharmaceuticals,” and so-called “emerging contaminants.” Yes, RO removes PFAS as well.
If you live outside the city . . .
your water usually comes to you from a well on your own property. A well is essentially a hole in the ground with a pipe through which water in an underground pool is sucked up to the surface. It’s like drinking from a glass with a drinking straw. Also, many non-city dwellers pull their water through pipes directly from a pond or stream and treat it themselves.
If you have a well or draw water from a lake or river, you are your own water treatment superintendent, so you need to pay attention to what you’re about. The first thing you should do is get a good, comprehensive water test. This will cost you a couple of hundred dollars, but it will pay for itself easily in what you’ll save by not purchasing unnecessary or inappropriate equipment. If the test shows that your water is perfect, the peace of mind you gain will more than pay for the test.
The reason the well test is needed is that you don’t have the benefit of the testing that’s done for you with city water. If there’s arsenic in the city’s water source, the city is obligated to take care of it and to tell you about it. If there’s arsenic in your well, the only way you’ll know is by having a good test done.
With private water sources there is a much greater chance that extreme treatment will be needed. Here are some of the common issues with well, river and pond water, along with some of the ways they can be corrected.
Bacteria — pathogens like E. coli can be controlled by chlorination or ultraviolet treatment.
Iron and manganese— treated with iron filters that often require pre-treatment with aeration or chlorination. Small amounts of iron and manganese can also be treated with a water softener.
Hydrogen Sulfide (rotten egg odor) — treated by chlorination or aeration followed by filtration.
Arsenic, Chromium — reverse osmosis for drinking water. (Frequently left untreated for point of entry.)
Pesticide, Herbicide, general chemical contamination –Carbon filtration.
Tannins (tea colored water) Ion exchange and carbon filtration.
Hardness--Water Softener.
Sand, Sediment — Backwashing filters or cartridge style sediment filters.
Dissolved Solids (high mineral content) — Reverse osmosis.
Whether your water comes from a city, a lake, or your own well, an undersink reverse osmosis unit is your most complete drinking water option.
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Undersink Filters
Double undersink filters are in may ways the best buy in a drinking water filter.
Doubling up allows you to add specialty items like lead removal, fluoride removal or even bacteria removal without giving up the advantages of a full-sized carbon block filter for chemical removal and taste/odor improvement.
The standard city water filter set-up in our double filters, what you'll get if you don't specify otherwise, is the MatriKX CTO+ (formerly KX-1) and Pb1 cartridges. This combination gives great chemical capacity, superb chlorine reduction, lead reduction, and cyst (giardia/cryptosporidium), PFAS, and VOC removal.
Our Black and White undersink filter series includes single, double, triple and even quadruple filters in either the standard format with its own faucet for filtered water or in the "simple" style which dispenses filtered water through the cold water side of your kitchen faucet. The series uses standard-sized cartridges, so cartridge availability is never a problem.
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Places to visit for additional information:
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Thanks for reading. The next Occasional will be out eventually--when you least expect it.
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