After two days of witnessing the current struggles facing the inhabitants of Barek Aub, the team was given a glimpse into BA's potential future by spending the day in Istalif. We didn't "do" a lot today... but we certainly learned a lot
Istalif is a mountainside community that had 40,000+ people living throughout the district before being forced to leave as their homes were destroyed by militant Taliban leaders in the late 90's because of its strategic location in the civil war battles being waged in the Shomali Plain below. Following the fall of the Taliban regime in 2001, the people began returning to rebuild their town and their lives.
We began our day in Istalif taking a tour of the Comprehensive Health Clinic, recently cited as the #1 CHC in Afghanistan by the Ministry of Health. The Istalif clinic, through its emphasis on preventative as well as curative medicine, was able to virtually eradicate Leshmaniasis (a disfiguring flesh-eating disease common in bombed out areas), Tuberculosis, Polio, and several other communicable diseases common in that region.
Following the clinic tour, our Afghan host shared with us his personal story of trying to rescue his brother from the Taliban-controlled area as he watched it being completely stripped of all homes, businesses, and vegetation. About half the district's population was centered in the town of Istalif itself and at one point the population was zero... everyone had fled. After the Taliban had left the area our host began working with the first doctor to return to the area and an outside charitable organization in the US to begin to bring in emergency aid as well as develop a long-term development program to help Istalif get back on its feet.
By 2007 most of the pre-war population had returned and their basic needs are now being met -- they have several schools, basic and comprehensive medical clinics, some grazing land for animals, fruit trees and wheat supplying food for much of the residents, and a modest localized economy based primarily on Istalif's world renowned pottery.
Istalif is blessed with at least three things that Barek Aub does not have: water (and lots of it, thanks to constant runoff from the Hindu Kush Mountains), room for crops and livestock, and a history to draw upon as a blueprint for its future. Absent those ingredients, it will be a tougher road for the residents of Barek Aub. But with many of the people responsible for helping Istalif get back on its feet, the work in Barek Aub is underway, much progress has already been made, and there is great hope for the future.
There wasn't much "drama" today and no heart-wrenching stories to share. Today was a day for appreciating the rebuilding that has taken place in Istalif and catching a vision of the future of Barek Aub... one filled with hope.
I'm signing off early tonight... we have a big day planned tomorrow that is sure to be the toughest for us of the week. (Details tomorrow.)
Your thoughts and prayers are the fuel that propels us. Please keep them coming!