Today was a “day off” from our usual routine and a day to learn a bit about Afghan history, our partner organization’s history, and experience some uniquely Afghan culture and hospitality.

 

Our partner organization has been working in Afghanistan since late 2001 in a village on the western edge of the Shomali Plain called Istalif.  Today we got the chance to travel to Istalif to see the re-growth that has taken place since the area was destroyed by enemy forces in the late 1990’s.

 

As dry and dusty as the Kabul area is, Istalif is blessed with abundant runoff from the snow-capped Hindu Kush mountains and the river that runs through the middle of town helps irrigate hundreds of surrounding acres of lush, green vegetation.  The word “oasis” comes immediately to mind and comparing it to Estes Park isn’t too much of a stretch.

 

As we pulled into town, I immediately noticed there were a lot of people having picnics among the trees, playing in the river, and even riding horses (rumors of some of our team members getting rides are greatly exaggerated and photos and videos don’t prove a thing).  I’ve been to Istalif a dozen times and I’ve never seen so many people out enjoying themselves.

 

We first headed to see the clinic which our partner organization helped rebuild literally from ashes in 2001 and supported through 2013 when it was returned to government authority.  Unfortunately, since that time budgets have gotten tighter and funding has decreased significantly, but there are still four doctors and staff who maintain the clinic three days a week on a volunteer basis and treat emergency cases.  It is hoped that full government funding will resume some day soon.

 

We were very fortunate to sit with one of the doctors who took the lead in rebuilding the clinic and hear his story of the village and its revitalization through the work of our hosts.  What a privilege to hear about a significant piece of Afghan history from one of its key players.

 

We then walked to the remains of the Istalif Hotel, a resort hotel on a bluff overlooking the Shomali Plain that was very popular in the 70’s and 80’s.  Because of its strategic location, enemy fighters occupied the hotel in the late 1990’s and destroyed it and the rest of Istalif upon their retreat in 2001.  From the roof of one of the remaining structures you can see most of the local village and the incredible amount of rebuilding and replanting (more than 35,000 fruit trees) that has gone on ever since people began to return in 2002.

 

Before heading back to Kabul we wanted to support some of the local businesses so we looked up an old friend, Gul Ahmad, and dined on fresh local kabobs, naan, and Shorwa (sheep fat soup) at his kabob stand on the Istalif River.  We then headed to the local bazaar where the team picked up a few souvenirs of world-renowned Istalif pottery.  I was delighted to be greeted by my old friend, Said Ibrahim, an Istalif potter I’ve known and visited with since 2008.

 

After a brief visit, we headed back to Kabul for an afternoon of rest and journaling before making plans for tomorrow.

 

It’s hard to believe that tomorrow is our last full day here in Kabul.  We’ve got some significant activities planned that I can’t wait to share with you.

 

Thank you for keeping us in your hearts and minds as we wrap up our time here.

 

--Bob